Plaited fabric and process of producing the same



Patented Feb.- 24, 1931 CAMILLE DIREYFUS, NEW YORK, N. "Y.

' PLAITED FABRIC AND PROCESS OF PRODUCING THE SAME No Drawing.

This invention relates to a process of plaiting' woven, knitted or other fabrics made of or containing thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose. The term thermoplastic derivativcs of cellulose is to be interpreted as includin; the various esters and ethers of cellulose which are rendered plastic by heat. Cellulose nitrate, cellulose acetate, celluose butyratc, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, etc, may be cited as examples of such thermoplastic derivatives. YVhile such fabrics have been plaited heretofore the results obtained were not permanent in nature and disap peared upon being dampened or upon continned wear, particularly in damp atmospheres. In this respect the plaiting of fabrics containing thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose gave results very similar to those obtained when plaiting fabrics of other textile materials An object of this invention is to provide a process whereby the plaitings of fabrics containin g1- thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose can be very effectively accomplished. Another object of this invention is to produce plaiting's on fabrics containing; thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose which shall be permancnt or at least much more permanent than heretofore. Another object of this invention is to devise a process for producing plaitings on fabrics containing organic derivatives of cellulose which will not be re moved when the fabric is subjected to laundering operations. Other objects and advantages of this invention will appear from the description and claims.

The usual process of plaiting consists in passing the fabric together with a paper between rolls so adjustel and faced as to give plaits of the desi ed size and configuration. In some instances best results are obtained by protecting the fabric, above and below, with paper while the same passes between the rolls of the plaiting machine, As previously stated, however, the plaitings thus obtained are not permanent.

The present invention consists in my discovery that the plaiting of woven or knitted fabrics made of or containing thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose can be made perma Application filed July 15, 1927.

Serial No. 206,119.

nent if the fabric is treated with a softening agent prior to subjecting it to the plaiting operation. The plaiting thus obtained is permanent, persisting even when the fabric is subjected to laundering operations One method of carrying out my invention will now be described. A fabric containing cellulose acetate yarns which was to be plaited in accordance with my invention was sprayed with a dilute (25%) aqueous solution of acetone. The excess liquid was then removed by passing the fabric through nip rolls. The slightly damp fabric was then passed through a Chandler plaiting machine under the usual conditions, except that the apparatus may be maintained at a lower temperature than usual. The fabric was found to have been beautifully and permanently plaited. Its snap or spring-back was much superior to that usually obtained upon plaiting ordinary fabrics in the usual way. In addition to the improved snap or spring-back it was found that the fabric had not been delustered or at all discolored by the steaming to which it had been subjected in the plaiting operation. This is a material advantage since natural silk and other fabrics turn yellow as a result of the steaming which they receive in the lait-ing process.

y invention is not to be considered as as limited to the above specific embodiment. Fabrics containing thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose other than cellulose acetate were treated as outlined above and similar bencficial results were obtained. The concentra tion of the dilute aqueous acetone can also be varied and where desired can be replaced by dilute solutions of other solvents or by solutions of softening agents for the particular thermoplastic derivative of cellulose pres- 9 cut in the fabric. lVhere solvents of the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose are em ployed they should be so diluted that they will not destroy or otherwise deleterious-1y affect the fabric; where solid softening agents are employed they should be dissolved in a solvent which will not dclctcriously affect the fabric being treated.

lnstead of spraying, the solution of the solvent or the softening agent of the thermo lllcl plastic derivative of cellulose onto the fabric the latter can be dipped in or otherwise impregnated with the solvent or softening agent. The excess liquid can be removed from the fabric by evaporation or whizzing as wellas by passing the fabric between nip rollers.

The process above outlined can be modified by wetting or impregnating the protecting paper utilized in the process with the solvent or softening agent for the tllerrn plastic derivative of cellulose instead of similarly wetting the fabric itself. In this modification when upperla'ycrs and lower layers of paper are employed it is necessary to thus wet only one of the protecting layers of paper. (The paper thus wetted should have a capacity for retaining a certain proportion of the softening agent solution applied thereto.)

The amountuof softening agent or solvent employed in this process can be varied as desired even to the point of dispensing with its use altogether. The smaller the amount of softening agent employed the higher will be the temperature and pressure necessary to effect the permanent plaiting of the fabric containing the thermoplastic cellulose derivative. Thus where no softening agent is employed the temperature and pressure will have to to be raised to the point where the cellulose derivative becomes plastic in order to obtain a permanently plaited fabric. Usually it is advantageous to employ at least a slight amount of softening agent.

The term "softening agent as used in the description and claims includes within its scope any compounds which have a swelling, softening or solvent action upon the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose present in the fabric. It also embraces the use of such compounds alone or when used in conjunction with solvents or diluents which may or may not affect the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose at the temperature at which the plaiting is carried out.

As examples of solvents for cellulose acetate the following are mentioned: acetone,

diacetone alcohol, cyclohexanone, alcohol,-

aceto-acetic ester, acetic acid, ethyl lactate, etc., and as examples of swelling agents, solutlons of ammonium thiocyanate, stanmc chloride, etc., may be given.- Non-volatile softening agents such as triacetin, triphenyl phosphate. sulfouamides of aromatic compounds such as inouo methyl exylene sulfonamide, p-toluene sulfonamide. etc., may also be employed. The wetting liquid may also contain a lubricant such as oleic acid, amnionium oleate. olive oil etc., for the purpose of reducing the internal friction in the fabric.

The improved results obtained by treating fabrics containing cellulose acetate with dilute aqueous acetone were duplicated when other thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose and other solvents or softening agents were employed. My invention is not dependent upon the use of a Chandler type of plaiting machine as other types of plaiting machines were successfully substituted in carrying out my process. My invention, therefore, is not to be construed as limited to the specific illustration previously given but is to be considered as limited only by the scope of the appended claims.

Having described my invention what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. A process of plaiting a fabric containing yarns of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose which comprises subjecting the fabric to a suitable plaiting operation at a tempera ture and pressure sufficiently high to render the cellulose derivative plastic, whereby the fabric is permanently plaited.

2. A process of plaiting a fabric containing yarns of organic derivatives of cellulose which comprises subjecting the fabric to a suitable plaiting operation at a temperature and pressure sufficiently high to render the cellulose derivative plastic, whereby the fabric is permanently plaited.

3. A process of plaiting a fabric containing yarns of cellulose acetate which comprises subjecting the fabric to a suitable plaiting operation at a temperature and pressure sufficiently high to render the cellulose acetate plastic, whereby the fabric is permanently plaited.

4:. A process of plaiting a fabric containing yarns of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose which comprises subjecting the fabric to a suitable plaiting operation in the presence of a softening agent for the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose, whereby the fabric is permanently plaited.

5. A process of plaiting a fabric containing yarns of cellulose acetate which comprises subjecting the fabric to a suitable plaiting operation in the presence of a softening agent for the cellulose acetate. whereby the fabric is permanently plaited.

6. A process of permanently plaiting fabrics containing yarns of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose which comprises treating the fabric with a softening agent for the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose and then subjecting the fabric to any suitable plaiting operation.

7. A process of permanently plaiting fabrics containing yarns of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose which comprises treating fabric with an aqueous solution of a softening agent for the thermoplastic derivative of cellulose and then subjecting the fabric to any suitable plaiting operation.

8. A process of permanently plaiting fabrics containing yarns of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose which comprises treating the fabric with an aqueous solution of acetone, and then subjecting the fabric to any suitable plaiting operation.

9. A process of permanently plaiting fabrics containing yarns of thermoplastic deriva-ti'ves of cellulose which comprises treat ing the fabric with a 25% aqueous solution of acetone, and then subjecting the fabric to any suitable plaiting operation.

10. A process of permanently plaiting fabrics containing yarns of thermoplastic derivatives of cellulose which comprises treating the fabric with an aqueous solution of acetone, removing the excess liquid. and then subjecting the fabric to any suitable plaitinn operation.

11. A process of permanently plaiting fabrics containingyarns of cellulose acetate which comprises treating the fabric with a softening agent for the cellulose acetate and 29 then subjecting the fabric to any suitable plaiting operation.

12. A process of permanently plaiting fabrics containing yarns of cellulose acetate which comprises treating the fabric with an aqueous solution of acetone, and then subjecting the fabric to any suitable plaiting operation.

13. A process of permanently plaiting fab-- rics containing yarns of cellulose acetate which comprises treating the fabric with a 259*?) aqueous solution of acetone, and then subjecting the fabric to an suitable plaiting operation.

i i. A process of permanently plaiting tabrics containing yarns of cellulose acetate which comprises treating the fabric with an aqueous solution of acetone, removing" the excess liquid and then subjecting the fabric to any suitable plaiting operation.

15. A fabric containing yarns of a thermoplastic derivative of cellulose which possesses plaits which are permanent in nature.

16, A fabric containing yarns of a fatty acid ester of cellulose which possesses plaits which are permanent in nature.

17. A fabric containing yarns of cellulose acetate and a softening agent therefor which possesses plaits which are permanent in naeuro.

In testimony whereof, he has hereunto subscribed his name. I

CAMILLE DRE YFUS. 

